Europe 2003
Personal Travelogue
by Steve J. Garrod
Page 10

 

London, England


I had a small scare given that the ticketing agent thought that I was flying to somewhere beyond London and advised that I would not be able to fly out that day given the strike conditions in London.  I then reiterated that London was my final destination and that cleared things up.

My flight was not until 2:05pm so I had quite a bit of time to wait, as did Joanne.  We had a snack and coffee at a café in the airport for a little while and then said 'farewell' as we each headed to our respective terminals.  I found a wonderful 'quiet area' in the airport where guests can lie back in a chair, read, or nap.  I chose the latter for most of my waiting time before proceeding to my gate to meet British Airways flight 815 for London.  I was upgraded to 'Club World' so that was proved to be very nice especially given that there was nearly an hour delay on the ground prior to takeoff.

It was a pleasant flight and the approach to London was particularly fascinating.  We seemed to delay our landing in London due to traffic and the ongoing strike at London-Heathrow.  We circled directly over the city of London and I was able to see a lot of the major sites such as Big Ben, the Tower Bridge, and the London Eye.  The landing into Heathrow was, however, one of the roughest I'd ever experienced and the flight crew jokingly referred to it as a windy day in London landing.

 
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British Airways Flight 815 at Copenhagen's Kastrup Airport Waiting for Boarding at Gate A15 Flight Progress Monitor

Shortly after landing at London, Heathrow, I met up with my airport shuttle representative to get to my hotel.  A ride that would normally take about thirty minutes took almost two hours given the number of stops that we had to make at other hotels.  I finally arrived at my hotel, the London Marriott County Hall.  The location was impeccable as it is adjacent to the London Eye and just across from Big Ben.  Right away it seemed that London was one of the most overwhelming cities that I had been in.  Obviously that phenomenon tends to dissipate with time and exploration but I had already predicted that it would be a tiring three days.

Given that "Big Ben" was just a walk across a bridge from my hotel, it was one of the first sites that I took in by camera.  Contrary to popular thought, "Big Ben" is actually named for the bell which the clock tower houses.

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Various perspectives of "Big Ben" over the course of three days in London.



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Given how much there is to see and do in London, I knew that it would be very overwhelming to tackle it all.  I definitely wanted to get a plan going.  Upon my arrival to the hotel, it was already going on early evening so I did not have much in mind other than a nap and dinner.  I did, however, attempt to learn "the Tube" (London Underground).  I wholeheartedly proclaim that the Tube is a wonderfully efficient way to get around London and very easy to decipher.  The only challenge that I had encountered was simply finding the Waterloo station from my hotel but I write that off as poor logistical planning.  It turned out that the easier Tube station to use from the Marriott County Hall is the Embankment station.  The Embankment station is easily accessible by two entrances : Villiers Street and Victoria Embankment.


Just adjacent to the Marriott County Hall hotel is the British Airways London Eye.  While I did not actually take a ride, it certainly provided an interesting backdrop for many photos.  I can simply imagine what a striking view it provides it patrons.  Designed by Marks Barfield Architects, the London Eye was created with 1,700 tons of steel making it heavier than two-hundred-fifty double decker buses.

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Multiple Views of the London Eye

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Seen almost in conjunction with Big Ben is Westminster Abbey.  Being an architectural masterpiece of the thirteenth to sixteenth centuries, Westminster Abbey presents a unique pageant of British history - the Confessor's Shrine, the tombs of Kings and Queens, and countless memorials to the famous and great.  In the present day, the Westminster Abbey is still a church dedicated to regular worship and to the celebration of great events in the life of the nation.  In 1965 to 1966, the Abbey celebrated its 900th anniversary which accepted a theme of 'One People'.  It is a fitting theme given its worldwide outreach and development of the lives of the English people.

 
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Having had this be my first visit to London, there were a couple of names that I knew I'd have to visit.  Of course one of the biggest retail names in London is that of Harrod's.  I am not a really big spokesperson for the art of luxury shopping but I knew that I needed to take the time to explore her various levels.  In 1999 Harrod's, London's most famous department store, celebrated its 150th birthday.  The store began in the mid-19th century when Henry Charles Harrod actually opened a grocery store on the nearby Brompton Road.  There was definitely a formal feel to the store and a vast crew of security.  Harrod's actually implements a dress code and has been known to turn shoppers away for not adhering.  By night, Harrod's is lit up with 11,500 lights.  The nearest Tube station to Harrod's is Knightsbridge.


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Harrod's of London

After having explored Harrod's, I took a logistical approach on what to see next.  I wanted to do it in a manner that would be easy in regard to transportation via the Tube.  Among the next stops that I made were Marble Arch and Madame Tussaud's.  Marble Arch was originally designed in 1828 to be the main entrance to Buckingham Palace.  It was moved to where it is now located when Buckingham Palace received an extension and there was no longer sufficient space.  Marble Arch has replaced Cumberland Gate as a new entrance to the nearby Hyde Park at the top of Park Lane.  The road layout was changed in 1908 and 1961 which placed Marble Arch on an island.  Within view of Marble Arch is BT Tower which is a television tower even though it does have regular internal floors.  It was constructed from 1961 to 1964 and stands at 625 feet (191m).  Madame Tussaud's is a world-renowned institution and became established on Marylebone Road in 1884.  It was rebuilt after a fire from 1925 to 1928.

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Marble Arch, BT Tower, and Madame Tussaud's

 

This particular day had become very busy with all of the aforementioned sightseeing but I decided to take the Tube to another area filled with tourist sites just after Madame Tussaud's.  The Thames River is home to a great number of popular attractions so simply strolling along it brings nearly a day full of activities.  Many vantage points along the Thames River also provide fantastic photo opportunities. as I had found.

The Tower of London is just one very important sight along the way.  The Tower of London played an important role in history and is composed of various sections : Traitor's Gate, Tower Green and Scaffold Site, The Queen's House, the Chapel of St. Peter and Vincula, the White Tower, the Bell Tower, and the Beauchamp Tower.

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Before visiting a new city, I typically always have an image or landmark that I most closely associate it with.  Along with the image of Big Ben, I had always envisioned the Tower Bridge as being another trademark of London.  I was sure to make this my next point of interest and photography.  The entrance fee for the full tour cost four-and-a-half pounds and it was very well worth it.  The Tower's tour begins on ground level, proceeds up and over the bridge, and then down to the other side where one can see an example of the mechanics involved.  Along the way are various informative movies and placards to explain the history, magnitude, and science of the Tower Bridge.

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Views of the Tower Bridge from both Inside and Outside

 

Viewing from both the Tower Bridge and from walking along the Thames River, I noticed an unusual building off in the distance which is quite curious.  This unusual structure is the Swiss Re "Gherkin".  This structure was designed by Sir Norman Foster and was built on the site of the old Baltic Exchange which was gutted by an IRA bomb.  Among the locals, this structure has come to be known as 'the Erotic Gherkin' or 'the Towering Innuendo'.  Nonetheless, it does make an interesting addition to the London skyline.

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Europe is certainly well known for its city squares where residents and visitors may stroll, people watch, and enjoy shops & restaurants.  One such area that I found in London is Picadilly Circus.  This area manages to portray an image very much like New York City but just with a British accent!

Located here is the Eros Statue.  Atop this bronze statue is an archer symbolizing the virtue 'charity'.  It is dedicated to Lord Shaftesbury for whom affordable housing was a personal cause.  Londoners have adopted this statue as a symbolic link to their pre-Roman past and continue to call it 'Eros'.

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After experiencing the excitement of Picadilly Circus, for which there is an independent Tube station for access, I began to wander off and look for additional landmarks.  A relatively short walk south is London's National Gallery.  A rather dramatic structure nearby is the Admiralty Arch.  The Admiralty Arch was designed by Aston Webb between 1906 and 1911 and incorporated offices and two residences for the Sea Lords.  The triple triumphal arch forms part of the ceremonial approach to Buckingham Palace.

Also nearby is Nelson's Column.  Nelson's Column stands over 185 feet tall and around its base are four giant bronze lions created by Edward Landseer.  The column itself is 170 feet tall and the additional height is of the statue of Nelson himself.  Nelson's Column commemorates the Battle of Trafalgar.  

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Trafalgar Square itself is very impressive and also a place for residents and guests to gather.  Located herein is a fountain created in 1845 accommodating four copper mermaids and dolphin sculptures. As part of the goings on was a band playing for a Midsummer Festival 'Jazz on the Streets'.

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Nearby to Trafalgar Square is Duke of York's Column.  This 124 foot monument was erected in 1833 to the glory of Frederick, second son of George III.  The Duke is remembered best by being the 'Grand Old Duke of York' who marched his 10,000 men to the top of the hill and marched them down again.

I certainly noticed that London has a great number of pillars, columns, and statues to commemorate historic dates or noble people in history.  Perhaps one of the most popular of these is Cleopatra's Needle.  I had heard the name a lot in the past and wanted to make sure that I visited this one up close and personal.

Cleopatra's Needle is sixty feet high and weights 186 tons.   It is also older than the city of London itself.  The monument was presented to the British in 1819 by Mohammed Ali, Turkish Viceroy in Egypt.  It was thought that the obelisk was too awkward to transport to Britain but in 1878 it was erected by the Thames, shortly after the Embankment was completed.  Beneath Cleopatra's Needle is a Victorian time capsule containing artifacts of the day, including photographs of twelve beauties, newspapers, and railway timetables.

Cleopatra's Needle does have a twin and it is located in New York's Central Park behind the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

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Another predominant feature throughout London is the number of parks that I spotted.  The Victoria Embankment Gardens, just nearby to Cleopatra's Needle, is a narrow strip of public park by the Thames which was created in the late-19th century with the construction of the Embankment.

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On my final full day in London, I still had various major sites to check out.  In regard to meals in London, things can be a bit pricey.  I decided, therefore, to eat as simply as possible.  I did eat out one evening just to get the city experience but wound up bringing delicatessen items to my hotel room each night thereafter.  I also found a wonderful kiosk just over the bridge from County Hall which serves up unique pancakes with many choices of fillings.  There is also freshly squeezed orange juice there which was equally wonderful.

I decided to find the famed Buckingham Palace and its surrounding areas.  I took the Tube to the Victoria station and it still took me a bit of time to get my bearings.  There may very well have been a more ideal station to access.  Buckingham Palace is one section of the expansive Royal Residences including The Queen's Gallery, The Royal Mews, Windsor Castle, Frogmore, The Palace of Holyroodhouse, Balmoral Castle, Sandringham House, Clarence House, St. James's Palace, Kensington Palace, and other historic venues.

Buckingham Palace has served as the official London residence of Britain's sovereigns since 1837.  It evolved from a town house that was owned from the beginning of the eighteenth century by the Dukes of Buckingham.  Today it is the Queen's official residence.  Although in use for many official events and receptions held by the Queen, areas of Buckingham Palace are open to visitors on a regular basis.

 

At and Around Buckingham Palace
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I was very surprised to find myself nearing my hotel after wandering off from Buckingham Palace.  I really had no concept of how far things are by foot after having become so accustomed to the Tube.  For the remainder of my stay in London, I decided to hit miscellaneous sites that came my way.  I really did not want to do much more heavy exploring but rather just see what was left.  It had been recommended to me to see the Tate Modern Museum.  It seemed like the perfect thing to do with the time that I had left as well as the energy.  Until this point, I had not been too familiar with any details regarding modern art.

I was extremely surprised and pleased after exploring each of Tate Modern's levels.  I was particularly fascinated with the section on human behavior.  Some of the exhibits there were admittedly brash and eye-opening but also gathered the attention of many of the tourists there.  There was also a major exhibition taking place called 'Cruel and Tender'.  This name evolved from how write Lincoln Kirstein described the work of photographer Walker Evans in the 1930s.

General admission to the museum is free but I decided to donate a bit of money given how much I enjoyed the museum and what I feel that I got from the experience.  An interesting structure just outside of the museum is the Millennium Bridge.  I decided to traverse the bridge to get some photographs and also explore other views of the Thames River.

The Millennium Bridge is a pedestrian-only steel suspension bridge between the Southwark Bridge and Blackfriars Bridge linking Bankside with the city.  It was the first new bridge across the Thames River since the Tower Bridge in 1894.  A competition organized in 1996 decided the design of the bridge and the winning theme turned out to be "Blade of Light".  There were height restrictions due to the views of the city, etc., the suspension cables are actually beneath the deck level providing a very low profile.  Construction began on April 28th, 1999 and completed on June 10th, 2000.

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After having experienced the Tate Modern Museum, I did just miscellaneous sightseeing between there and returning to my hotel.  Upon having crossed the Millennium Bridge, I saw St. Paul's Cathedral nearby.

St. Paul's Cathedral is the Cathedral for the Anglican Diocese of London.  It holds church services and is also a museum.  Many notable soldiers, artists, and intellectuals have been buried in the crypt, including Lord Nelson, the Duke of Wellington, and Christopher Wren, famous architect who designed the building and supervised its construction.

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Overall, I found the Thames River to be a directional landmark in terms of finding my way from the hotel to the various outlying landmarks.  Not only is it very functional in that regard but it also provides many striking views of the architecture and skyline of London.

The Hungerford Bridge is a highly unique bridge in that it is the only one to combine rail and foot traffic.  The project cost for the new bridge in 2000 was fifty million pounds.  The two multispan footbridges are 320 meters long and 4.7 meters wide.  The new structure opened up views upstream towards Westminster and also provides stunning new views of London's riverscape, particularly at night.
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I really should afford myself the time to accentuate the hotel in which I stayed.  Anyone looking for a high-quality and elegant hotel, I highly recommend the Marriott County Hall.  For many years, County Hall was the home of London's government in the form of the London County Council and later on the Greater London Council and Inner London Education Authority.  The innermost building designed by Ralph Knott was started in 1911 but the intervention of two world wars impeded the progress for its completion in 1958.  Quite interestingly, during the construction of County Hall, a third century Roman ship was discovered.

The Marriott County Hall seamlessly retains a feel of old-world charm and construction with all of the modern amenities imaginable.  Walking through the lobby and the corridors, one really feels as if they are in another era.  The twenty-first century technology becomes apparent in the room facilities and particularly in the hotel's fitness and spa facilities. 

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Despite's London having seemed overwhelming at first, it truly does not take very long to find a comfortable affection with the city.  With a sheer sense of adventure and common sense, it is easy to learn the London Underground and see all everything imaginable in a given amount of time. 

 

 

Continue to Oosterdam Inaugural / Rotterdam, Netherlands

 

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