Europe 2003
Personal Travelogue
by Steve J. Garrod
Page 5

 

 

St. Petersburg, Russia - Day One

Overnight sailing into St. Petersburg, it stayed relatively light until at least midnight!  We passed Royal Caribbean International's Grandeur of the Seas on our port side.  It was beautiful to see the outer decks, etc. in the evening light.  The downside of this evening, however, was our having to lose one hour given the time change.

On the morning of Monday, July 14th, 2003, I had room service delivery of breakfast to the stateroom.  I became accustomed to doing so for early port days and I quite enjoyed it.  I discovered the art of having breakfast and coffee at a leisurely pace versus experiencing the early morning port crowds in the Lido Restaurant.  It was quite warm and humid already outside when I walked out on deck to see the port.  The Regal Princess was docked perpendicular to us and the Norwegian Dream was docked aft of us.
eu03_365.jpg (39739 bytes) eu03_366.jpg (38197 bytes)
Noordam's aft decks by late evening. Regal Princess in St. Petersburg

 

We were to meet our tour guide with DenRus at about 7:15 am so we gathered ourselves near the Front Office just prior to 7:00am so that we could have our documentation in order.  Upon disembarking the ship, there was a band playing to greet our arrival which I found very nice!  We proceeded through a guarded checkpoint where our documents and visa verification items were checked.  Upon passing through this checkpoint, we met our tour guide Marsha, and began our two-day adventure!  We had a mini-van that could accommodate one person in the front seat and then there were two rows that could accommodate two and three persons, respectively.

eu03_144.jpg (49619 bytes)

Before having traveled to sites such as Pushkin and Catherine's Palace, we made a stop in the city to a World War II Memorial.  The memorial pays tribute to the valiant effort of the Russians against the Nazis in World War II.

eu03_146.jpg (23978 bytes) eu03_145.jpg (19973 bytes) eu03_147.jpg (33886 bytes)
As with all of the sites that we saw in St. Petersburg, Marsha did a remarkable job detailing the aspects of the World War II memorial.
eu03_148.jpg (22294 bytes) eu03_149.jpg (27061 bytes) eu03_150.jpg (33267 bytes)

 

Despite our not having traveled too far into the city or beyond at that time, I was already amazed by the cultural differences.  It was interesting to just immerse myself in the language differences, architectural variances, and the Russian way of life.  It was about an hour van ride out to Pushkin to explore Tsarskoye Selo.  The highlight of this visit was taking a tour of Catherine's Palace which was designed by Francesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli.  Rastrelli's design is very apparent throughout Catherine's Palace as well as many other venues throughout St. Petersburg.  One of my favorite areas designed by Rastrelli is the Great Throne Hall.  There are a lot of dominating gold and amber colors throughout and each time that we entered a new room, it was difficult not to take photos of them all!

eu03_155.jpg (39530 bytes)
eu03_154.jpg (49466 bytes)
eu03_151.jpg (38261 bytes) eu03_152.jpg (37158 bytes) eu03_153.jpg (19456 bytes) eu03_156.jpg (50885 bytes) eu03_157.jpg (39817 bytes)
We proceeded through various rooms of Catherine's Palace and each seemed to have its own unique personality despite the lingering of some common themes and trends. 
eu03_158.jpg (52062 bytes) eu03_159.jpg (45267 bytes) eu03_160.jpg (52996 bytes) eu03_161.jpg (50305 bytes) eu03_162.jpg (52735 bytes)

After having spent about an hour touring through Catherine's Palace, we walked outside and explored the landscape of the Alexander Park.

eu03_165.jpg (32981 bytes) eu03_164.jpg (50161 bytes) eu03_163.jpg (43755 bytes) eu03_166.jpg (43177 bytes)
This is, perhaps, one of my favorite photos from the entire trip. Getting a grand perspective of the Great Palace. Beautiful landscaping to complement the architecture. Myself paling in comparison to the spectacular façades.

After having left Catherine's Palace, the day just got to be even more interesting in more ways than one!  By this time, it was beginning to get quite warm inside the van.  The Russian way of life is not too accustomed to having high temperatures as such so air conditioning is more of a rare phenomenon.  It became a joke that no matter which direction the van turned or where we were headed, I had the sun beaming in on me.  I was starting to find that to be more the truth than a joke!  To add to the adventure, we came across a very large traffic jam along the Nevsky Prospekt.  Joanne and I became like two children on a school bus joking about how we were roasting in the back of the van.  Our driver was trying to keep the air conditioning low as well to not put too much pressure on the van's engine.

We were, however, on our way to one of the biggest highlights of our trip to St. Petersburg.  One of the features that we found most fascinating in even signing up for this excursion was the option to have lunch with a Russian family.  It was going on nearly 2pm when we got to the apartment building given the horrendous traffic conditions.  Traffic is not normally that bad but we happened to be 'lucky' enough to experience traffic when Prince Charles was visiting.  We entered the apartment building and it was very humbling, to say the least.

eu03_167.jpg (42350 bytes)

I normally do not eat very well when it is hot outside.  When we entered the apartment, we met the family and they already appeared to be very nice, genuine, and accommodating.  We regretted that we all had to use the restroom after just walking in and meeting but Marsha explained to them that we had been in a very long van ride.  I saw nice and cool salads sitting out on the table already so that was good news given how hot it was.  Marsha translated throughout the dinner as the family basically only speaks Russian.

We enjoyed the salad, water, piroshky, and then soup and I was already feeling full.  Much to my surprise, the grand entrée was next on its way out.  The plates were brimming with hot food.  Despite its smelling so good, I thought that I was going to pass out.  Karen looked over at me and later told me that I looked like I really was going to pass out.  I didn't think that I'd be able to get through any of it but surprised myself and others when I ate all of it.  It was spectacular cuisine and I was able to try some Russian delicacies that I had only heard of previously.  After we had completed the entrée, the family offered us some hot tea.  We graciously accepted even though we were looking at each other in wonder given how hot we already were.  Joanne and I had agreed that we have never experienced water as hot as that was.  It sounds like a joke but I guess one would have had to be there to realize the extent.   We couldn't even hold the cups and were all trying to find modest ways to cool our tea off.

It was an extremely positive experience, though, and I am so grateful to have had the opportunity to make some new friends in a faraway country.  We just couldn't believe how accommodating they were.  We even believe that they had bought all new dishware, in addition to all of the food, just for our visitation.  They very much outdid themselves but it truly added a magnificent element to our visit to St. Petersburg and our entire trip overall.

eu03_168.jpg (63695 bytes)

 

eu03_169.jpg (33895 bytes)

Before having returned to the Noordam, we drove to our next destination of the Peter and Paul Fortress.  On the way, we passed the Church of Spilled Blood.  We had our own joke that our van became the van of boiling blood as hot as we were by this time.  The peak heat of the day was definitely in effect and we were all dreaming of air conditioning, a shower, and a nap .. well at least I was!  We made our photo stop of the Church of Spilled Blood prior to the Peter and Paul Fortress given how our schedule had been changed a bit given the long traffic jam earlier.

The Church of Spilled Blood

 

The Peter and Paul Fortress was founded on a small island in the Neva Delta on May 27, 1703, becoming the birthday of the City of St. Petersburg.  In the center of the fortress is the Peter and Paul Cathedral where all of the Russian Emperors and Empresses from Peter the Great to Alexander III are buried.  Atop the cathedral is a gilded spire with an angel holding a cross.  This is one of the most prominent symbols of St. Petersburg and being 404 feet, it is the highest building in the city.

eu03_170.jpg (32841 bytes)

 

eu03_171.jpg (47869 bytes) eu03_172.jpg (45265 bytes) eu03_173.jpg (42465 bytes) eu03_174.jpg (44022 bytes) eu03_175.jpg (37976 bytes)

The interior is decorated in baroque style of the early 18th century.  The elaborately decorated icon wall was made in Moscow between 1722 and 1726 entirely from wood.  Near the icon wall in the southeastern corner is where Peter the Great's tomb is located.  This was the final stop on our day one of touring.  We were all very much anticipating our return to the ship given how hot we had been all day long.  The ride back to the cruise ship terminal was relatively quick, however, and in not much time we were ascending the gangway to get back aboard ship.

Predictably so, it was a bit quiet around the ship on this evening.  Eileen and Ron were to leave the ship later that evening, in fact, to go to a Russian ballet.  I could not even imagine having to go back out for another excursion for as tired as I was from the day! Dinner, understandably, was informal for the evening.  There was no formal show given that so many guests were ashore so the feature for the evening was the movie 'Chicago' to be played in the Princess Theatre.  There were also other activities going on around the ship like 'Name That Tune' with Bobby London in the Horn Pipe Club and the Noordam Quartet played in the Piet Hein Lounge.

eu03_356.jpg (27704 bytes)

None of us really stayed up too late on this particular evening given that we needed to be ready for the next day's excursion.  The itinerary for the next day was going to be comprehensive again so I set the clock early again and arranged to have room service for breakfast.   Room service was very efficient and, most times, I found it having been delivered even earlier than the requested time.

Docked Overnight in St. Petersburg

 

 

St. Petersburg, Russia - Day Two


eu03_176.jpg (38604 bytes)

We met up with Marsha at about 8:30am so we were fortunate to not have started quite as early as the day prior.  We loaded back into the van and headed into the city.  One of our first stops was to view the Narva Triumphal Arch.  It was erected as a memorial to the War of 1812.  The Narva Triumphal Arch was constructed on the Narva highway to greet the soldiers who were returning from abroad after their victory over Napoleon.


After our brief photo stop, we were headed next to the main city to ride the Metro and see some of its most beautiful stations.  This was truly an exciting opportunity to see how the locals travel and experience their public transportation.  The Metro stations there are much more like museums of opulent art and culture than just merely stations.  The stations are very deep underground given St. Petersburg's being built on a swamp.  With this, there are seemingly endless escalators that sweep city goers deep into the stations.

 

The next stop on our agenda was to Peterhof where we were to walk through the famous fountain park and then tour the Grand Palace.  Peter the Great founded Peterhof in 1705 and is very much detailed by Francesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli in line with Elizabethan Baroque.  One of our first areas to tour was the Upper Gardens where we had a group photograph taken.

eu03_177.jpg (51302 bytes)

Myself, Karen, Joanne, Ron, and Eileen 

 

eu03_178.jpg (43684 bytes) eu03_179.jpg (51543 bytes)
Within the Great Palace we discovered The Audience Room which was designed by Francesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli (1749-1755).


After having toured indoors, we proceeded outside to view The Great Cascade, Voronikhin Colonnades, and the Sea Canal.  The Great Cascade, decorated with numerous fountains, gilded bronze statues, vases, and bowls descends towards the pool in the center of which stands the monumental statue from 'Samson Rending Open the Jaws of the Lion' by Mikhail Kozlovsky, 1802.

eu03_180.jpg (54105 bytes) eu03_182.jpg (44526 bytes) eu03_183.jpg (45089 bytes) eu03_181.jpg (50987 bytes)

It was a very pleasant walk through the gardens and there were just so many wonderful photo opportunities.  Given how warm it was outside, we all had just wanted to go swimming with all of the water surrounding us!  After approximately forty-five of exploring the gardens, we boarded the van once again and were to head into the city center.  We went to a small café where we would be able to enjoy some more authentic Russian cuisine which we were all very much looking forward to.

eu03_190.jpg (54374 bytes)

We had managed to get short on time, however, given that we needed to get to the Hermitage Museum and make a meeting for the Gold Room.  We agreed that some of us could begin to order at the café and those who had wanted could go with Marsha to explore St. Isaac's Cathedral.  I immediately opted to see St. Isaac's Cathedral as I always enjoy seeing the interiors and getting some interesting photographs.  I was required to pay a nominal amount, however, to tag my camera and be allowed to take photographs.

 

eu03_184.jpg (61094 bytes) eu03_185.jpg (59321 bytes) eu03_186.jpg (54679 bytes) eu03_187.jpg (52067 bytes) eu03_188.jpg (68466 bytes) eu03_189.jpg (52472 bytes)
Various perspectives of the St. Issac's Cathedral's vivid interiors.

St. Isaac's Cathedral was built in 1818-58 by a French-born architect Auguste Montferrand who was commissioned to build the most spectacular church.  St. Issac's gilded dome dominates the skyline of St. Petersburg.   Despite Moscow's Church of Christ the Savior being larger, St. Isaac's is said to have more inspirational façades and interiors by far.  A large stained glass of 'Resurrected Christ' is located inside the main altar and is quite colorful and dramatic.  St. Isaac's was erected to accommodate fourteen-thousand worshippers standing but is now a museum only.

After having visited St. Isaac's and meeting up with the rest of the group for lunch, we were then needing to go to the Hermitage Museum.  For many travelers not having been to St. Petersburg, the Hermitage is probably the highest on one's list of priorities.  The Hermitage is the largest safekeeping of art in Russia and most representative museums in the world. It is composed of a number of various buildings on the Palace Embankment : the Winter Palace, the Small Hermitage, the Old Hermitage, the Hermitage Theatre, and the New Hermitage on Millionnaya Street.  Our first stop within the Hermitage was that of the Gold Room.  The room is situated in the part of the Winter Palace where auxiliary services were originally located and features unique objects unearthed on the territories of the Northern Black Sea Coastlands and Northern Caucasus.  There is one particular display that highlights jewelry objects made by the masters of Ancient Iran, Byzantium, Egypt, Armenia, Georgia, and Northern Caucasus (5th Century BC - 17th Century AD).  We had a special tour guide who specializes in these areas to lead the tour and Marsha translated accordingly from Russian to English for us.

eu03_191.jpg (49487 bytes) eu03_192.jpg (48415 bytes) eu03_193.jpg (33300 bytes) eu03_194.jpg (49890 bytes)

 

To be able to get acquainted with the displays of all four hundred rooms of the Hermitage, one must cover a distance of fourteen miles.  If one were to stop in front of every exhibit for just a minute and spend eight hours each day, it would take him/her fifteen years to see all of the collections.  Catherine the Great acquired 225 paintings in 1764 by Western European masters from the Berlin merchant Gotzkowsky and that is considered to be the 'founding year' of the museum.

eu03_195.jpg (45997 bytes)

This is a malachite gilt bronze vase from 1841.

eu03_197.jpg (40396 bytes) eu03_196.jpg (57425 bytes) eu03_198.jpg (33151 bytes)

Detail abounds in literally every corner that one can imagine.

 

eu03_199.jpg (63599 bytes)

After having seen such extravagance in the Hermitage Museum, we were about to experience a bittersweet conclusion to a full two days in St. Petersburg.  While they had seemed like two hot, long days of touring, we truly had acquired some amazing experiences.  In addition to that, we had met some wonderful new Russian friends with whom we had shared it with.  We rode in the van back to the port and bid farewell to Marsha and our driver.   To sum up our wonderful experience in St. Petersburg, a band was once again playing for us at the gangway upon our arrival.

 

We were scheduled for 6:00pm departure from St. Petersburg.  It was published that shortly after setting sail, we would be passing the Kronstadt Naval Base on our starboard side.  This definitely sounded interesting and I was looking forward to seeing what was involved.  I decided to get myself ready for dinner first and then walk around outside the ship.  I had been ready a bit early so I retreated to the Crow's Nest Lounge where I tried to close my eyes for a little bit and relax prior to the evening's goings on.  The port lecturer, Joe L'Episcopo, would be narrating the experience of passing the naval base.

eu03_200.jpg (29493 bytes) eu03_201.jpg (30769 bytes) eu03_202.jpg (38066 bytes) eu03_203.jpg (34872 bytes) eu03_204.jpg (20354 bytes)


It was very interesting to see this island and small community in the middle of the water just off the coast of the metropolis of St. Petersburg.  From the decks of the Noordam, we could spot various landmarks of the naval base such as the former Kronstadt Maritime Cathedral where the former 'Kronstad Fortress' branch of the Central Naval Museum is situated.  It was also relatively easy to see the city wall that extended throughout the base from the 1930s.

 
On this evening, there was a lot going on around the ship with a Russian theme.  The gift shops had another session of the 'Russian Bazaar' where guests could purchase Russian souvenirs that they may have forgotten about ashore.  Dinner in the Amsterdam Dining Room was also of a Russian theme.  From 10:45pm until midnight there was a 'White Nights Late Night Barbecue' that took place on Lido Deck aft.

eu03_360.jpg (38588 bytes)

We had the short distance of only 147 nautical miles to sail to Helsinki, Finland.

 

Continue to Helsinki, Finland

 

 

shipcafe.net
the ship café seattle life the webmaster

life words

friends & family

the guest book