Europe 2003
Personal Travelogue
by Steve J. Garrod
Page 2

 

 

Copenhagen, Denmark
I had done a fair amount of research on the city of Copenhagen prior to even leaving Seattle so I was particularly anticipating my arrival there.

My flight from Berlin arrived into Copenhagen at approximately 11:15am on Wednesday, July 9th, and then I ventured into the main terminal to find a shuttle into the city center.  DSB Trains run about every twenty minutes from Kastrup airport to Copenhagen Central Station (Hovedbanegården).  I purchased my ticket at an office in the airport and in very little time, I was on a train heading into the city.  It was not only a very simple process but also an enjoyable way to get into the city inexpensively.  Upon arriving at the Central Station, I decided to also venture by foot with my luggage and find my hotel.  I stayed at the Scandic Hotel Webers located on the Vesterbrogade and it was approximately a ten minute walk by foot from Central Station.

The hotel itself recently went through a thorough renovation but very much retains and old, classic atmosphere.  Getting my luggage from the lobby up to my room was a bit of a challenge given the closet-like lifts but I managed!  The trip up was  very much worth it after seeing the room itself and the amenities offered.  I truly loved the elegant and simple design, the light woods used, and classy bathroom design.  It is all something that I could very well adopt for my own living quarters!

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Pictured are varying views of my room at the Scandic Hotel.

Keeping with my typical routine, I decided to take a brief nap before venturing out into the city.  After a short rest, however, I was very eager to get out and explore!  I decided to first head away from the major city center along the Vesterbrogade and check out what the outlying areas had in store.

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The Rådhuset

The Strøget

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Even just within the first hour of my walking around, I was instantly captured by the unique character and beauty of Copenhagen.  A couple of the most easily recognizable sites from my studies were the Strøget and the Rådhuset.  The Strøget is a unique pedestrian walkway closed to traffic that offers a wide variety of shops, restaurant, and other tourist attractions.  The easiest way for one to gain access to the Strøget is to simply find the expansive Rådhuspladsen and Rådhuset and branch off from there.

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I found Copenhagen to be a very clean, neat, and well-organized city.  I enjoyed the winding and hidden streets that each seemed to have its own personality.  Another notable characteristic is that of the many waterways that exist throughout the outer areas of Copenhagen.  There is one main waterway, however, that I was very much anticipating to find.  I had read so much about Nyhavn and its beautifully painted buildings and channel lined with watercraft that it was definitely at the top of my list to see.  Despite its being fairly crowded when I visited Nyhavn, it was just as beautiful as I had read about and I was eager to capture various photos from a number of angles.

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Several views of the beautiful Nyhavn area.

I found Copenhagen to easily be one of those cities where I could just continue to walk and never even realize where the time or distance is going.  It had still been my first day in Copenhagen and I was finding myself over in the Christianshavn area with more specialized stores where it appeared many more of the locals would frequent versus simply the tourists.

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When I realized that I was heading a bit far off the beaten path, I turned back to get over the Torvegade and toward the other attractions that I still wanted to get to.  I began to turn north and walk along the Kvæsthusgraven.  I had the intention of eventually seeing where the cruise ships docked and my seeing ships in the distance gave me some encouragement in this area.  The first ship that I saw was the Crown of Scandinavia.  Just to the left from proceeding north I could spot glimpses of Amalienborg Slot.

The singular spire of Vor Frelsers Kirke built in 1682 for Christian V.

 

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Despite how much I had already walked that day, I realized just how far north I was headed and anticipating finding what almost everyone associates with Copenhagen.  Approximately twenty minutes farther north, I began to see a crowd assembled and knew that I had stumbled upon Den Lille Havfrue (the Little Mermaid).  I could hardly believe how many people were crowded around, walking up to the Mermaid, and even falling in the water!  It is surprising that such an attraction is based upon this mermaid who sits slumped upon a rock looking out for her lost love whom she refused to kill to return to sea.  To say the least, I made sure to get a good collection of photos of such an anticipated attraction.

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good collection of photos of such an anticipated attraction.

After having seen the Little Mermaid, I could see that it was starting to get later in the afternoon from the change of sunlight.  I decided that I would just walk back into the city despite my seeing a "Hop On Hop Off" bus that was currently in the middle of an excursion.  I took a different route going back, however, that would lead me through Strøget and be able to find something to eat.  I found a small café that offered more or less a 'buffet style' dinner that was quite inexpensive.   After dinner I went back to the hotel to shower, change, and see what some of Copenhagen nightlife had to offer.   As per the suggestion of a bartender, I tried the local Carlsberg brew and took quite a liking to it!  Another popular beer in Denmark is Tuborg which I also managed to enjoy a bit.  I wound up watching a bit of karaoke (which still seems very popular in Denmark) and then retiring with the aspiration of another exciting day!

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On the morning of Thursday, July 10th, I enjoyed a European style breakfast that was complimentary at the hotel.  I always find that style breakfast to be great in its simplicity and healthy food options.  It primarily consisted of meats, cheeses, fruits, juice, and coffee.  As with many European hotels, there is a common dining area in which many of the hotel's guests gathered to enjoy the same breakfast.  This particular Scandic Hotel's happened to be in the lower level.

Fred Olson's Black Prince at Langelinie

At approximately 10:00 am I headed back out into the city.  My first goal was to take public transportation up to the Langelinie pier to scout out where the Noordam would be docked the following morning.  I wanted to travel as the locals do so I waited for one of the HT buses (predominantly yellow) which accepts fare on board for a single journey only.  It was a very nice ride up to Langelinie and I was able to reflect on that which I had walked just the evening prior.  Upon leaving the bus, I was able to see where I'd be traveling the following morning and there was just a single ship in port that day.  I could see a Seabourn ship on the horizon making her way to the port.

One Last Visit to the Little Mermaid

I spent just a few moments at the port and then decided to just walk and conquer.  I had a pretty good mental list of what I still needed to see.  A big priority of mine was to watch the changing of the guard at Amalienborg.  The actual ritual began at 11:30am and I was there with plenty of time to spare and secure a good place to stand.

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The Danish flag flies high above Amalienborg if the Queen is in residence.

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The daily ritual begins at Rosenbort Slot and the guards then proceed through the streets of Copenhagen accompanied by the military band of the Royal Guard.

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The Royal Life Guards are ever present and protect Queen Margrethe's life in the unlikely event of an attack.

It was quite an exciting event to see the changing of the guard.  Shortly thereafter I walked through some less traveled streets to see intersections and roundabouts that I had not yet seen.  It had become quite a warm day so I decided to balance my time walking in the sun with going through quaint stores.  One of the most popular department stores in Copenhagen is the Magasin du Nord.  I walked through each level of this grand store enjoying the various products and style of shopping.  I particularly enjoyed the electronics department where I gazed at the various products of Bang & Olufsen.  I pondered on how much I would love to outfit my apartment with these products all the while wondering how I would ever finance that.

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After enjoying Magasin du Nord, I proceeded to walk through the various channels and walkways of Copenhagen.  I happened across another sight that was on my list and I was very happy to find.  Located on Købmagergade is the Rundetårn (Round Tower) which was completed in 1642 and stands 114 feet (34.8 meters) above the city.  The Rundetårn was built for the astronomer Tycho Brahe under the command of Christian IV.

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Another big attraction that I knew I needed to still explore was another attraction that Copenhagen is very well known for,  Tivoli Gardens.  In everyday life I am not very much into amusement parks, fairs, and events of the such so I was not sure what to expect.  I knew that it had to be much more charming than my preconception given that it was European designed and operated.  I decided to go through Tivoli Gardens once by the afternoon and then return after dusk in order to see all of the lights in operation.  I found it to be very interesting and lively even though it still did not evoke much of the child in me.  I basically captured some photos that I thought summarizes the essence of Tivoli Gardens.  I left just prior to the dinner hour and had my hand stamped in order that I may return later in the evening.  Regrettably, my hand stamp had washed off in the shower but I merely showed the guard my receipt from prior in the day and he allowed entrance.  It did not seem, however, as though they prefer that method of validation.

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Views of Tivoli Gardens by Day

Between visits to Tivoli Gardens, I decided to have a light café dinner more along the lines of local cuisine.  I sat at a sidewalk café and enjoyed a fresh smoked salmon sandwich.  It was wonderful cuisine and it was nice to sit open air and people watch at the same time.  After having had dinner, I returned to my hotel to shower and change before heading back out to Tivoli Gardens for additional photos.

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Views of Tivoli Gardens by Evening

I returned to Tivoli Gardens at about 8:00pm and discovered just a short amount of time into the visit that there was a concern taking place therein.  The crowds soon grew so large that I was just looking for a way out!  I could hardly believe the large amount of people attending this concert.  It seemed, for that brief moment, that there were not nearly enough exits for the park.  I managed to find my way out, however, and took some last-minute photos just outside of Tivoli Gardens and just across from my hotel.

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The Radisson SAS Hotel Rådhuspladsen by Evening.

After having escaped from the crowds at Tivoli, I walked back to my hotel and dropped my camera before going out for the evening.  While my hotel was relatively close to all of the goings on, it seemed like I walked that path so many times back and forth.  I quickly discovered that the night life in Copenhagen did not get started until much later than I'm used to in the United States.  Given that, I took my time walking to and from and just enjoyed the dusk and mild temperature gracing the city.  I did not want to stay out too late in that I would be getting up a bit earlier the following day to meet the Noordam at Langelinie Pier.  I truly had a great time this last evening in Copenhagen, though, and loved the music.  It was so much fun to stand back and watch the local Danes out and enjoying themselves with friends.

On the morning of Friday, July 11th, I enjoyed another great breakfast at the hotel restaurant.  After making certain that everything was packed, I began the arduous task of bringing my luggage back down through the courtyard and to the lobby to check out.  I wanted to be economical again and chose to take the local bus transportation to the cruise ship pier.  I felt a bit awkward bringing my luggage on board but it was, overall, a very pleasant trip again.  I had just so happened to catch the bus that ended just short of the cruise ship pier and I wound up having to wheel my luggage a bit of distance.  Luckily a porter spotted me from afar and was more than kind to come and assist.

A friend of mine, Danielle, was a Front Desk Supervisor on board the Noordam just happened to be signing off that day to go home.  I boarded early and met up with her at the gangway.  It was great to see her and she took me on a personal tour of the Noordam before she needed to catch a shuttle to Copenhagen's Kastrup airport.  As strange as it sounds, I was actually feeling more melancholy to be leaving Copenhagen than sheer excitement to be setting sail that day.  I truly just fell in love with the city of Copenhagen and could have easily spent another week there.   With those thoughts, I decided to have one final lunch ashore before I was to stay on board for the rest of the day.  On the way back to the Noordam, I took some photos of the other ships docked there that day.

 

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The Crystal Serenity The A'Rosa Blu
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Views of the Noordam Docked at Langelinie Pier

 

 

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